Trail And Errors

A great campsite,  & with their solid crew around them, Molly & Ethan awake to birdsong after a lovely deep sleep. Plenty of chat today amongst the team, as most of them are heading to Yosemite valley tomorrow and this is likely to be their last day all together for (perhaps) a very long time :( . Donahue Pass is today's obstacle, but it is the last of the High Sierra passes! Whilst the previous weeks have been defined by snowy mountain passes with some river crossings, the next section is defined by abundant water with some snow sections. The heavy melt is evident as the water often cascades down the trail itself. They bump into Sugar Glider; whose appearance reminds them that today is 'hike naked' day...mmm. (Ed. maybe I should add his photo to the website?). A long last lunch with everyone includes gossip from the trail; SOBO got lost again, we hear about Hong Kong Tyrone, Highlander, Slaughterhouse; they lament the absence of Trail Magic in the Sierras; as (naked) Crunch and (non-naked) Gilli

The day begins with 2.5 miles over Mammoth Pass to get back to the PCT, and the team are surprised how much snow has melted since they were last on the trail. Through pine forests and past Minaret Falls the trail is beautiful and different from the remote Sierra they've been hiking through for the last few weeks. Ethan is surprised by the distant sound of a truck, a sound not heard from the trail for 300 miles. The see the Devil's Postpile rock formation from across the river, and think about the climb over Donahue Pass they will tackle tomorrow. Thoughts also again turn to the dangerous state of the rivers they will have to ford. Their bags are heavy with 8 days worth of food, and after two 'zero' days in town their legs are heavy too. Part of the crew discuss their plans for a side trip into Yosemite, but Molly & Ethan plan to press on to Sonora Pass 110 miles away. Steep switchbacks take them up to their campsite; with beautiful views across the valley and a stunning sunset they enjoy one of the last n

After a couple of days in Mammoth Lakes the team finish their shopping and head back to the trail. Ethan runs through the supplies they've bought for the next 8 days, with a focus on cheese. They hitchhike back to trail, and are faced with the 4 mile closed road walk back to Horsehoe Lake, followed by 3 miles over Mammoth Pass. With itchy feet from 2 days in town they are keen to get back on trail, but with a big group gathered at Horseshoe Lake they collectively decide to sleep there and a big social evening ensues. Talk turns to the dangers of the river crossings to come, but Molly & Ethan realise that there is always something to worry about and it is better to verify the actual danger yourself instead of relying on rumour and hearsay. They discuss their decision not to join the group planning a detour into Yosemite valley itself. They talk about the elevated CO2 levels at their camp spot and it provides another dangerous element that one could spend time worrying about. Lamenting a lost spoon/fork (sp

Enjoy the sounds of a 'double zero' in the ski town of Mammoth Lakes, as the guys take a couple of days off to recover from their 10 days in the mountains. Thoughts move ahead to Yosemite, where they will enter the park in a couple of days. Funk entertains us on the guitar, they all think about going skiing for the day (the slopes are open!), they discuss reasons for doing the PCT and the inherent dangers. Molly, Ethan, and SOBO plunder a bakery for croissants and doughnuts, and they get their first warning about the swelling river crossings in northern Yosemite. They visit a very Californian smoothie bar for an $11 Happy Belly & Banana smoothie, they bump into Zach, who they last saw in the fading light going astray over Mather Pass in the high Sierra. They again discuss the river crossings ahead, before checking into their AirBnB...wow! It's awesome :) With laundry done, some new shorts for Ethan, and a BBQ planned with everyone that evening the team are happy to be in civilisation for the moment; Episo

It's a cold morning on trail, and after a 10 day stretch out in the sticks Molly & Ethan are pleased that finally they will reach civilisation today! Bumping into Ribbit (Tom) & Nellie, they start to discuss their food plans for the day, with burgers due to be the first of many meals. Ethan stumbles across what looks like a Porcupine kill, and takes some quills as a keepsake for his mum & dad (I'm sure they'll be grateful!). Thoughts again turn to town and they weigh their immediate need for cleanliness against their desire to eat some proper food (Ethan yearns for cereal). Unfortunately Reds Meadow, the normal resupply point just off trail, is still closed due to the snow, and they turn off the PCT to take the 2.5 mile side route over Mammoth Pass to Horseshoe Lake and a road. Seeing the absence of cars in the car park their fears are realised when they discover the road to Horseshoe Lake is still closed and they have another 4 miles to walk to get to an open section. Eventually reaching a point

Molly & Ethan wake with views over Edison Lake with a waterfall in the distance. Ethan spends some time reflecting on the experience of hiking through the high Sierra, and they agree that you have to earn your views. After a log crossing they begin the steep hike up to Silver Pass, entering the snow zone once again. After 9 days on the trail with no sign of civilisation they are looking forward to town, but the false summits of Silver Pass temper their joy as they struggle upwards with cold feet and sweaty bodies. The 2.5 mile ascent takes a couple of hours, but the similar descent takes 20 minutes, as they are able to make 3 long glissades back down the other side of the pass. They take stock of the effect of being out in the wild for such a long period of time, and how the effort of getting off the trail when there are no roads or immediate access points adds to the feeling of remoteness. The discuss their cravings for town, and what they miss from home. With plans for a 'double dinner' when they reach

A dramatic day on the PCT. Team EthaMol wake early, a poor night's sleep for Ethan whose sleeping pad has sprung a few leaks. Deer roam nearby, but unfortunately so do the mosquitos! Although they have yet to see any bears, they do come across some bear tracks, which is the cause of much excitement. They still feel the distance remaining to town, and are more than ready to rinse off the miles when they get there. Climbing uphill over Selden Pass the eat their breakfast on top, and discuss the river crossings ahead. Reaching the notorious Bear Creek after a long descent, they can see their friends on the other side and prepare themselves for the crossing. The water is swift, deep, and strong; and despite trying a recognised fording technique they are not entirely successful, and Ethan gets another rinsing. They dry off in the sun before pushing on over some further smaller creeks. Reaching their planned campsite they are reluctant to camp in the snow and push on over Bear Ridge and down a very steep descent wh

The watch-word for today's journey is 'wet'. The guys begin the day with oatmeal and peanut butter overlooking Evolution Creek winding it's way through the valley. It's an honour to be in such majestic surroundings, and as they move further down towards the river SOBO catches up with them. With the creek in full flood they opt to cross at a slow but wide section that meanders through a flooded meadow, and having spotted the rest of their 'tramily' across the creek they secure their belongings as best they can and wade across the chest deep waters. Knowing that Mammoth Lakes is still 4/5 days away there is a quick planning meeting as a couple of the team are heading off-trail to resupply at Vermillion Valley Resort (a day's hike and a ferry ride away) where they can get internet and reserve a suitable AirBnb for them all to enjoy when they get to Mammoth. The team fragments for the rest of the day, and, once they're hiking again, Ethan promptly falls on his butt crossing a small stream and gets a proper soakin

Muir Pass (11,973ft) beckons, but it is a long 6 miles away uphill in the snow. Picking wild onions to add the their lunch, Molly & Ethan enjoy the scenery, but the more gradual ascent of Muir Pass leads to many false summits and some frustration. The sun is beating down, and although the surroundings are immense it is difficult to look up in the blinding light. Becoming tired of walking in the snow they set up a shelter with their ground sheet for lunch, and soak in the views. They recognise that they are in the middle of nowhere, 5 days walk behind them to civilisation, 5 days forward, and they feel the strain of being out for so long. As they watch avalanches fall across the valley SOBO shows up, and gives them news of other teams on the trail and a recap of recent events. Eventually they reach Muir Hut, and begin the long slog downhill through shin deep-snow. The views however, are better than ever, with an amazing forest coating the valley floor ahead. They can see Evolution Creek winding its way thr

The team begins the ascent of Mather Pass (12,096ft) early in the cold, with Molly & Ethan leading the way. Turning out to be the most technical climb thus far, they take the eastern side up avoiding the avalanche danger on the normal route, however the angle of the pitch is significantly increased. Across rock-climbs and traverses they reach the pass, before descending down the other side with stunning views along the valley. As they cross the snow line they come alongside a raging river, and stop for a swim in the icy waters before drying off in the sun. They spot some deer in the trees, and are pleased to be out of the snow for the moment. Making as much ground as they can towards Muir Pass, the views and the scenery are jaw-droppingly gorgeous. Best day so far, Trail & Errors Episode 65.

Waking early in the cold atop Pinchot Pass, the immediate need is again water, and the guys begin the descent with a rock climb down to the snow fields before they can find a water source. They spot Marmots in the snow, and plan the day's journey to the foot of Mather Pass; renown as the most technical of the high passes. There are a few big creek crossings today, including the deadly South Fork of the King's River, although they realise that they may be able to avoid the two crossings of this river with some bushwhacking. They also begin to think about Evolution Creek which they will hit in a couple of days, perhaps the largest crossing they will encounter. The climb towards Mather begins, and as they move up into the bowl beneath the pass they search for water which is still surprisingly difficult to come by when you need it. They camp below the pass, and spend the evening planning tomorrow's assault. The normal route from the southern facing right hand side is cut across by avalanches and, feeling that the

After a good night's sleep, the team awaken to a cold morning. They break camp with cold numb hands and immediately have a river crossing to contend with. Molly does a good job navigating with the trail still beneath the snow, but their confidence is shaken when the meet a hiker heading back towards Glen and Kearsarge Passes, having decided a river crossing ahead was too much for him and deciding he'd rather hike two days back down the trail and get to town to wait for the conditions to calm down. Deciding to keep to their mantra of checking things out for themselves, they push on, and come to another camp site where a couple of groups are still sleeping, including Funk & Cricket! Waiting for the others to wake up thoughts turn to strategies for the crossings, and with quite a few hikers there are more than enough opinions with some opting to turn around, some wanting to wait, and a few wanting to go ahead no matter what. Molly & Ethan realise that they weren't the only ones to struggle with yesterday

Glen Pass (12,000ft) proves a formidable challenge for the team today. They have a nice surprise before they get there though, as, having set off at 2am to get over Kearsarge Pass, Funk & Cricket pass by as Molly & Ethan are breaking camp. Water is again short, despite being surrounded by snow. A long tiring ascent up towards the bowl below the pass follows, with much evidence of avalanches. A miscommunication sees Ethan go off track, though they are distracted from their frustration by the far-off howl of some coyotes. Exhausted, they reach the summit, and plan their strategy for the rest of the day's miles, however the descent proves more dangerous than the ascent. With a heavier pack and less experience in the snow Ethan struggles a bit to keep his confidence (& his balance!). Eventually getting to safer ground, they pause for a long break and again struggle to find water. Their first proper river crossing follows; and they feel the biting cold of the snow-fed river. Struggling to navigate in t

Covering a Zero day (72) and a Nearo day (73) from town back over Kearsarge Pass (11,200ft), episode 61 begins in Bishop, where the team prepare for a possible 12 day section in the wilderness. Ethan gives us the low-down on the chores involved in resupplying, and talks about some of the forthcoming challenges in the high sierra, such as frostbite. Not knowing whether to hope that the hot temperatures mean less snow but higher river crossings, or that the high altitude will mean slower travel but safer streams, they spend their last night in the cool town of Bishop. The next day (73) begins with a game of Ping Pong, before Molly & Ethan hitch 42 miles south to Independence, then another hitch 21 miles up to the Onion Valley car park, where they begin the climb back up Kearsarge Pass at 4pm. The snow is soft and noticeably less evident on the trail going up, and they reach the pass without too much difficulty and enjoy the evening light and the stars coming out. Water is short, and the presence of avalanch

A beautiful morning greets the team as they hike 2 miles along the trail before turning off to the 7.4 mile side trail to Onion Valley over Kearsarge Pass (3400m). Passing frozen BullFrog Lake, they spot deer and coyote tracks, and begin the switchbacks up to the pass. The view down the other side is surreal, as they can see the sun blasted desert down through the valley. It's a hot day, and they pass several hikers making there way back up the pass to rejoin the trail - they look forward to that in a day or so! Managing to glissade down some sections, they reach the car park; where their permits are checked by a friendly ranger and they meet Chipmunk; a trail angel who gives them doughnuts, chicken sandwiches, soda, a lollipop; and best of all a ride of 55 miles to Bishop, where they check into the Hostel California before borrowing some bikes and riding to the local brewery for beer and burgers! Episode 60 of Trail & Errors... :)

Forester Pass, the highest point on the PCT at 13,200ft (just over 4,000m). After a very early start the guys head out, and unfortunately the snow has not frozen overnight making the going very slow and frustrating as they posthole with every step. As they come into view of the pass Ethan reflects on the challenge ahead and they begin the climb towards the switchbacks and the infamous crossing of the snow chute near the top. Listen to Ethan as he crosses (there's also a video on their website). They climb the final few metres to the top before enjoying the expansive views. Realising that these high passes will be an almost daily occurrence, they begin the steep descent, postholing up to their thighs before managing to glissade down. With thoughts of reaching the town of Bishop tomorrow, they are happy to have picked the safest way down from the pass avoiding the avalanche danger. Arriving at camp Ethan has a wardrobe malfunction, and they are all reunited when SOBO catches up the the team and they chat about

Molly & Ethan awake to a beautiful morning after a well earned 10hr sleep. They reflect on their good decision to skip the ascent of Mt Whitney, and they begin the 2 day climb towards Forester Pass and the highest point on the PCT. They tackle the first of what will become many sketchy river crossings, and trudge slowly through the semi-melted snow. They link up with SOBO, who has also decided to skip Mt Whitney. The views are even more incredible, and they enjoy the less frantic pace they'd been keeping to make the weather window for Whitney. They spend lunchtime discussing their favourite foods, and the myriad uses of Peanut Butter as a condiment. Eventually making camp at Tyndall Creek, they are pleased when Funk & Cricket arrive later on, having made it part way up Mt Whitney before the elements forced them back. A successful setup for the challenge of Forester Pass tomorrow... Episode 58 of Trail & Errors :)

Encompassing Days 66 & 67 (Ethan refers to these as Days 56 & 57 'on trail'), the team awake in Lone Pine, where, as usual, they struggle to escape the town vortex and leave in good time. Eventually getting a hitch back to the trail they are taken the wrong way and left stranded in the middle of nowhere! Luckily before too long a friendly local gives them a lift up the 22 mile dead-end road to Horseshoe Meadow, where they help a stranded motorist get his car out of the deep snow. Hiking up the few sludgy miles of Trail Pass back to the PCT, the weather is forbidding, but the beauty overcomes the cold wet conditions as they make a few miles past Cottonwood Pass to Chicken Spring Lake. The next morning they awake to frozen socks, frozen shoes, frozen gloves; frozen everything! They start out with a big climb in threatening weather, and soon realise that 20 miles days are but a pipe dream in the Sierras at the moment. After such a heavy winter they will be lucky to make 10 miles a day through the snow. D

Team EthaMol quickly conquer the 3 sludgy PCT miles to the Trail Pass trailhead that will take them to Horseshoe Meadow and on into Lone Pine. They encounter their first ranger; who checks their permits and bear canisters, and gives them some restaurant tips for their town visit. Leaving a note in the snow for SOBO to follow, they get to the car park and wait for her, before managing to get a hitch into the quaint town of Lone Pine for beer and pizza. Episode 56 from Day 66 (trail day 57) of Trail & Errors :)

In today's episode from Day 65 (Ethan refers to this as day 56 'on trail') the guys plan their route into Lone Pine for a re-supply. The beauty is awesome, mountainous and forested; interrupted occasionally by low-flying F-16s. Paradoxically in the snow, water is not always easy to come by, and Molly & Ethan need to plan their strategy accordingly. Another super campsite with a fire and good company sees them make good progress in the cold and snowy conditions. Episode 55 of Trail & Errors :)