Trail And Errors

Waking to the sound of birdsong and the buzzing of insects, especially mosquitos, today the team are faced with an extreme descent into the town of Belden in the blistering heat, followed by an equally strenuous climb out of town up the opposite side of the valley. Ethan is worried more about the downhill; although uphill is tiring the downhill affects less-used muscles, plus your feet are smashed into your shoes with each step and your knees take a battering. The day is boiling hot, but bizarrely their old friend snow makes a few very brief appearances! Out of the woods and onto the exposed ridgeline lizards abound, and they are certainly in rattlesnake territory again. Arriving in Belden they feel the physicality of the descent, but their minds are distracted by the bizarre happenings in town..the 'Camp Fuck It Up' festival is in full swing. The insane heat only adds to the sense of dysmorphia. After a very mediocre plate of nachos they move through the 'town' and look for some shade to rest before the clim

An earlier start than normal, and with food on their minds Molly & Ethan head up a steep climb with 10 miles to go before they reach the road leading to Quincy. It's hot and humid, and Ethan feels the lack of calories from his meagre breakfast. We hear about the NorCal blues; the start of the PCT through the desert is novel and exciting, the Sierra are challenging and require fortitude and strength; here in Northern California the trail is pretty (though they've seen pretty already) and not very difficult, so the challenge is mental rather than physical. They have their second breakfast after the big climb, with tremendous views out across the dense forests. Reaching the road they get a nice ride into Quincy, where they resupply at Safeway before enjoying Nachos, Burgers, & Beer at the Pangaea Cafe. They get a ride back to trail from Mike, though unfortunately Ethan leaves their groundsheet/ride sign in Mike's car! Uh oh... Back on a nice soft trail they move on to a pretty campsite where they find a

After a tough day yesterday Ethan & Molly have high hopes for a better one today. A bit concerned about the need to keep their daily mileage up, they begin in a dense forest but eventually move out onto a ridge with loads of butterflies and buzzing insects (unfortunately mosquitos too). It is ironic that as they cross a forest road a car happens by and offers them a lift into Quincy, but that isn't the plan for today, so they pass on the lift but accept some PB&J (Peanut Butter & Jelly) sandwiches from Barbara & her chihuahua. Today is much more positive, and as they descend to the Middle Fork Feather River they are feeling good and looking forward to a nice campsite and a swim. The river is majestic, with a lovely bridge spanning the rapids, but they actually decide to press on for a few more miles towards Bear Creek. An even better place to camp awaits, and they enjoy a quick dip in the cold water before bedding down for the night. 26 miles down and a much happier end to day 107; Episode 92

The terrain continues to change, and the daily mileage is improving; but often other hikers seem to be moving faster. Today Ethan & Molly set out to see how far they can go, not so much to push for a big distance but to see what a full day of walking results in. Although they initially descend, the day is mainly spent on high ridgelines. Passing through a large campsite they wistfully smell the bacon cooking, but the only benefit to them is the ability to dispose of their rubbish. Despite their initial positivity, their energy is low, and Molly is in discomfort. They want to be able to do 20 miles a day as a minimum; anything over that represents 'free' miles that they can use in town or for rest days. They plan to go in and out of Quincy tomorrow, then hit Chester 3 days later. Playing cat & mouse with the trail through a snow-filled dense forest, Molly is feeling homesick. As international hikers they are a long way from home, and feel very out of touch with their friends and family. Also the trail

Numb fingers this morning as the team pack up for the walk to Sierra City and beyond. It's a lovely woodland trail, but aside from birds not much wildlife; Ethan really wants to see a bear! They can see the unique formations of Sierra Buttes ahead, but first they dive a mile off trail to Sierra City for a 'gut buster' burger, and they run into their old trail friend Chef whom they haven't seen since Kennedy Meadows over a month ago! Pleased to be back on the PCT afterwards they reflect on how overwhelming civilisation is when you spend most of your time out in the sticks, though it was useful having internet access so Ethan could order some new shoes as his current pair are 'obliterated'. They climb up and past the rocky outcrop that makes up Sierra Buttes, Game of Thrones fans will enjoy their discussion about their top 3 moments from the series. Settling down to a pleasant camp by a lake they continue to plan the miles ahead to make sure that they can reach Canada before their visas expire in September. A g

The stars are bright overnight, and Ethan marvels at how much you can see when camped away from civilisation. Despite it being July the trail still has snowy sections, and they wear their spikes as they head out with expansive views out to the horizon. The elevation continues to drop, and the terrain continues to change, as they move further away from the Sierras. They should be done with the snow in a couple of days, but for the moment it still causes problems with navigation as the trail is often covered with snow. They enjoy their lunch, and feel they have their routine well dialled in now. The path when it runs high along the ridge lines is clear of snow with great views though windy, and then it dives into perfumed forests where there are pockets of snow, but none last for too long. They finish the day at a glorious campsite near a river, and agree it's been an awesome day on trail. Episode 89 of Trail & Errors :)

After a good night's sleep the guys are starting to lose track of days. They plan to dive into Truckee today for a quick resupply, and head down to the scenic road past Donner Lake to hitch into town. A smoothie and a bagel in town sets them up for the rest of their chores, and they start to plan further ahead as their days can be more structured now that the trail is consistent and flatter. People are everywhere in Truckee as it's still the holiday weekend, and it's evident that this area is popular for outdoor pursuits. Waiting awhile for a hitch back to trail two cars come along at once! Back on trail through beautiful woodland the walking is good, but Molly feels the whole pizza she had for lunch swelling her tummy. They reach Interstate 80, where the trail goes underneath the road through two tunnels, each of which is a flowing river of snowmelt! Climbing uphill after that icy-cold experience they emerge from the forest with fantastic views across the landscape from Castle Pass. Deciding to finish early

Although it's a bucolic setting camping next to a river, Molly & Ethan pay the price when they wake up this morning as all of their gear is wet with condensation. An annoying start to the day, as they head towards Donner Pass with two big climbs to conquer; Squaw Valley and then the colourfully named Tinker Knob. Ethan regrets not stretching this morning, as they head uphill and the snow appears again. The ski runs and infrastructure they walk past looks nonsensical in the summer-like conditions, but there is enough snow that a few skiers have hiked up to get some runs in. They bump into Sugar Glider, who had all his food stolen from his tent by a bear when he camped near Echo Lake! Across a river crossing and more snow their Sierra experience has really hardened them to the conditions. Ethan is europhic at the top of the climb to Tinker Knob, having an epiphany moment in realising how strong and fit he has become, and how the trail has crystallised ideas and plans he has for the future. They walk high al

Waking up to yet another beautiful sunny day the guys are hoping for less snow, a less obscured route, and more miles today. They heard what sounded like an impressive fireworks display over Lake Tahoe during the night, and this morning the PCT shows its friendly side with a pleasant clear trail. They consider the miles left to Canada, and the time they have left on their visa, and some mental maths reveals that they need to get to 20+ miles per day from now on. The snow continues to be an issue as they progress towards Granite Chief Wilderness, though they hear that after Sierra City (80 miles away) the PCT is clear. A picnic table lunch is a nice change from sitting in the dirt (or snow!), and they have great views over Lake Tahoe before heading back into a perfumed forest. Glissading down a couple of snowy sections, they push on past 20 miles for the day, though Molly takes a tumble off the trail :( . Eventually camping by a large river, they think about reaching Donner Pass tomorrow and getting some hot f

Day 100, and it's tough to get up from their warm tent. Heading towards Dick's Pass they walk alongside the still-frozen beauty of Aloha Lake and bump into quite a few Tahoe Rim Trail hikers who warn them about the snow ahead. EthaMol are unfazed by the potential conditions; they feel like expert hikers now, having trained in the SoCal desert and been tested by the High Sierra. The snow is annoying however, as it hides the trail and in the woods navigation is doubly difficult with false trails and lack of landmarks. The views when they occur are beautiful, but not Sierra beautiful, and although the strategy for the day (up a pass, down a pass, walk to camp) is reminiscent of the Sierras they really want to make more miles and are frustrated by the conditions. Slow hiking, getting lost often, and trudging through the snow leads to a wandering mind and homesickness, but they end the day by soaking their feet in a cold lake by their remote campsite. Motivation is difficult, and there is an element of self-pity a

Encompassing two days either side of their visit to South Lake Tahoe, Episode 84 sees the guys rise under a clear sky and don their spikes for a snowy section towards town. With potential wildfires on the horizon the contrast with the snow clad Sierras is evident. Navigation is difficult through the thick trees with the trail under the snow. A big descent towards Tahoe teases with views of the lake, and as the car park comes into view they plan their restaurant visits for the day. With their best smiles and sales patter they get an easy sort-of hitch with an Uber driver into town for only $5. Eggs Benedict for breakfast with plans for an all-you-can-eat Indian buffet for lunch before they can check into their AirBnb they realise that South Lake Tahoe is big and time consuming to get around, and they feel out of place in all the 'normal' people preparing for the July 4th celebrations tomorrow. We hear about their lovely gourmet evening when they wake the following morning and begin their town-departing routine

After a beautiful night under the stars with the Milky Way above the guys wake up hungry and it looks like a hot day ahead. Looking forward to Carson's Pass and the prospect of snacks from its visitors centre they head out discussing the food they'll have when they reach South Lake Tahoe tomorrow. Ethan feels a bit low, but after his mid-morning oatmeal he perks up. Much more infrastructure is evident on and from the trail; signposts, roads, noises; a lot more day hikers. Expansive views of the Sierras are behind them, although worryingly a forest fire is spotted across the other side of a lake. They reach Carson Pass; Trail Magic! After signing in with the friendly Barbara at the visitor's centre they return to the car park and sit down with a trail family of PCT hikers whom they've been leapfrogging and enjoy a beer and a sandwich and a recap of each others journey through the Sierras. Getting back on trail they plan to use the lunch they didn't need to eat to have with their supper, and when they eventuall

Whilst there are differing definitions of where the High Sierra end, for Molly & Ethan today is the day where they really feel that the landscape is different and that they are entering a new section. Starting with a 1,000ft climb, they enter the Carson-Iceberg Wilderness; and when they get open views ahead it is a real morale boost; to be able to see the trail in front of them makes them recognise the progress they make as move ahead. When the trail is hidden they don't feel like they're moving forward. The trail switches between the snowy side of the valley with some hard icy glissades and the snow-free side. The snowy portions are, as always, tough to navigate through the trees as false footprints quickly lead them off the trail. Heading for Emmet's Pass they consider how far it is to Mt Shasta (actually in California), the next massive peak they will see. The trail is better today, and the snow is visibly disappearing. Emotions on the trail are mixed; there is a suggestion that the danger of the river

The cold morning causes a lazy start for Molly & Ethan, and they begin the trail with spikes on in the snow. It is soon hot though, as they climb past waterfalls on a well graded path which is in contrast to what they've been used to. During a couple of big climbs with interesting geological features Ethan talks about 'hiker hunger', and how his body is craving fats and sugars, and how despite trying to eat fruit and vegetables he is drawn to burgers and burritos. A fragrant walk through woodlands sees is evidence of the change in sections of the PCT, and Ethan is looking forward to further changes as they move into Northern California, though he prefers to be able to see the trail in the distance to feel that he is making progress; in the forest he can see only 20m ahead! Music drifts on the wind through the woods, and they come across Crazy Legs, out hiking for the weekend. What a nice, interesting guy; when he did the PCT in 2015 he entered the Sierra on June 1st with no snow and no need for micro-spik

After a Zero day in Bridgeport to celebrate Molly's birthday and the end of the tough Sierra section of the trail, the guys need to resupply. Bridgeport is a nice town, but the options for hiker supplies are thin on the ground, so EthaMol hitch to Walker, 30 odd miles away, and find the general store there well stocked, though they have to swap out some of their normal purchases for new items (being English 'weiners' are an unfamiliar item). After some BBQ ribs at a nearby diner they need to hitch back to the trail. As Walker is not a normal resupply town rides are difficult, & Molly particularly feels the stress of needing to get a lift, and when they eventually get a hitch it turns out to be a friendly but wild journey! Back at Sonora Pass they head uphill, and at the top Ethan notices that the view ahead has a distinct lack of snow on the horizon. Having got rid of their bear canisters and ice axes in Bridgeport the guys are travelling lighter, and their next stop in South Lake Tahoe is only another tw

A 5am alarm call marks the start of a long last push into town. They're on the trail promptly, and despatch Cascade Creek quickly via a log crossing and a short wade. Passing the 1000 mile marker is an emotional moment as they consider how far their feet have bought them. The miles come quickly as they cross their first bridge for days and the trail winds through a beautiful wooded valley. They're pleased of their late night push yesterday, and as they start a 2000ft ascent they spot a doe with two fawns in a clearing. The trail moves up out of the forest onto a wide scree covered ridgeline; they take the rocky top to the ridge rather than the steep & sketchy snow covered traverse along the mountainside. The views at the top are immense, and the trail is good, but the wind is insane as the follow the ridge along the western edge before dropping over to the other side through a windy gap with rocky buttresses pointing skyward. Sonora Pass (a road rather than a trail pass) is in sight below, but there're st

Another super tough day on the trail, and this section is certainly living up to its reputation as the sting in the tail of the Sierras. With Stubblefield Creek their immediate problem, they know that today their feet will get wet. It takes an hour to figure out how to get across Stubblefield, with a few failed attempts and tactical retreats, with Ethan always going first it falls to him to suffer the most. At least the creek level is much lower this early in the morning. Eventually they make it over, but suffer greatly from the effects of the cold water. By the end of the following climb they are much recovered, and able to appreciate the views over Wilma Lake. Ethan falls several time in the snow; having skied from an early age Molly is a bit more sure footed in the slippery conditions. Taking cognisance of previous trail comments proves frustrating, as the conditions seem to have changed so much. They cross the edge of Wilma Lake to where they've been told to avoid crossing Falls Creek and follow it upstre

Some days are tougher than others on the trail, and today proves to be a tough one. It starts with Molly postholing immediately as they cross snowfields after a wondrous starry night in camp. After a PUD (Pointless Up and Down) they begin to see less snow on the trail as they descend to Piute Creek, their first major crossing of the day. After the surprise of yesterday's crossings being less stressful than anticipated they are disappointed that today is not the same. They choose to cross Piute upstream where it is split into several channels rather than swim across at the point where the PCT crosses the creek. After a bit of searching, and using notes they've had from friends ahead on the trail, they find logs to carry them across the first couple of tributaries, and Ethan appreciates the beauty and the scent of the pine forest they're in. They take a break by the meandering river amongst some massive trees. They continue across the marshy ground before heading uphill. By lunchtime they have made only 5 slow

Molly lives up to the genesis of her trail name, waking up with a blistered and burnt scalp yet again. Plenty of condensation from the nearby rivers make it a wet start, and it is cold in the shaded forests despite the occasional random open meadow. Meeting couple of southbound hikers they hear benevolent reports about the first of the major crossings today; McCabe Creek, which turns out to be straightforward despite last week's reports about it being problematic. Return Creek follows shortly after, and then Spiller Creek. Each is less sketchy than anticipated, leading Molly & Ethan to surmise that last week all the crossings throughout the Sierra were bad due to the hot weather (as they'd experienced at Bear Creek), and this week's colder temperatures had returned the snow to normal (rather than accelerated) melting rates. There's still snow covering the trail, making the ascents slow and the descents terrifying, but the absence of anyone else on the trail is welcome and EthaMol enjoy the solitude. Losin

A melancholic start to the day, as Molly & Ethan say goodbye to their trail family, who are all making a side trip into Yosemite Valley leaving EthaMol to continue on the PCT alone :( . It's the end of the Phi Chi Tau fraternity/sorority! The guys are now heading across the top of Yosemite, with 40 miles of river crossings ahead. A bucolic break watching deer across the meadow precedes their arrival at Tuolumne Meadows, where the first road for 240 miles crosses the PCT. This is also the only road to cross the Sierra from the east between Kennedy Meadows and Sonora Pass, and normally there is an open resupply store, campsite, and restaurant to refresh hungry hikers; but everything is still shut as the road only opened for an hour each morning and afternoon a couple of days ago. Not realising that cars are currently forbidden from stopping, Molly & Ethan are thinking of Trail Magic when they hit the road, but their only succour is a bench with a seat back to sit on (you don't realise the things you'll